Food on the Table 

Eat with your Eyes

Capturing the realistic appearance of various food items, including luscious fruits, gleaming fish, and sumptuous cheese, poses an engaging and multifaceted technical endeavor for an artist to master.


Master D.M. Lee | 7/29/2023

Edouard Manet, The Brioche, 1870, Oil on canvas MMA 1991.287

Reportedly, Manet regarded still life as the ultimate test for a painter's skill. Between 1862 and 1870, he undertook the creation of several grandiose tabletop scenes featuring fish and fruit, with this one being the final and most intricate. The inspiration for this piece came from the Louvre's acquisition of a painting depicting a brioche by Jean Siméon Chardin, an esteemed eighteenth-century French master of still life. Drawing from Chardin's approach, Manet arranged various sensory-stimulating elements around the buttery bread—a striking white napkin, velvety peaches, lustrous plums, a polished knife, a vivid red box—and, adhering to tradition, adorned the brioche with a fragrant flower.

When it comes to fruits, the artist must deftly render their luster, from the radiant shine of ripe apples and oranges to the soft glow of juicy berries. The challenge lies in replicating the intricate textures and subtle gradations of colors that make each fruit visually distinct and mouthwatering.

Luis Meléndez , The Afternoon Meal, 1772, Oil on canvas MMA 1982.60.39

Meléndez's still life stands out for its exceptional format and composition. It deviates from his usual style of stark backgrounds by featuring a lush landscape as its setting, which is quite unusual for him. The painting bears resemblance to a series of four works created for the Nuevo Cabinete de Historia Natural of the Prince of Asturias, now housed in the Museo del Prado, Madrid. It is highly probable that the Museum's still life initially had a companion canvas of the same size, portraying a landscape scene. The inclusion of a picnic basket justifies the title "The Afternoon Meal" (in Spanish, La Merienda).

Incorporating fish into the still life introduces a new set of complexities. The artist must skillfully portray the iridescent scales and shimmering skin of the fish, capturing the play of light on their silvery surfaces to convey a sense of freshness and oceanic allure. Attention to detail is crucial, as even the subtlest changes in color and form can elevate the realism of the fish and make them appear freshly caught and ready for the table.

William Merritt Chase, Still Life: Fish, 1908, Oil on canvas MMA 08.139.2

Chase's series of large-scale fish still-life paintings, created from 1904 onwards during his European teaching trips, exhibit his masterful brushwork and dark palette reminiscent of his early Munich period. Influenced by his contemporary, Antoine Vollon, and seventeenth-century Spanish still lifes appreciated by Vollon, Chase skillfully depicts fish on a tabletop, infusing seemingly ordinary subjects with captivating allure through his fine technique. Critics, like Leo Stein, praise Chase's ability to expressively portray the thick, soft-bodied fish, finding the artworks a visual delight that captivates viewers without sentimentality.

In these fish still lifes, Chase's artistry shines, transforming mundane scenes into mesmerizing spectacles. The captivating interplay of bold brushwork, dark tones, and rich composition breathes life into the canvases, leaving observers charmed and enthralled by the expressiveness of the aquatic treasures on display.

Cheese adds yet another layer of technical challenge. The artist must meticulously depict the varying textures of different types of cheese, from the crumbly nature of feta to the smoothness of brie or the aged rind of a robust cheddar. Achieving the visual richness of cheese involves precise brushwork and careful consideration of light and shadow, resulting in a mouthwatering portrayal that seems almost touchable.

Antoine Vollon, Still Life with Cheese, 1870, Oil on canvas MMA 18.22.1

During his lifetime, Vollon was acclaimed as a successor to Chardin. This particular artwork, likely created in the late 1870s, showcases his exceptional technical prowess in portraying the surface, light, and texture of commonplace items. His still life paintings, with their thematic choices, color palette, and bold execution, bear the marks of Ribot's influence, as Ribot's own work was inspired by seventeenth-century Spanish painting.

Painting lobsters in the context of still life compositions engenders a multifaceted set of challenges, demanding meticulous attention to intricate texture, nuanced color variations, and the complexities of lobster anatomy. The endeavor necessitates a fine-tuned interplay of technical proficiency and astute observation. The pursuit of harmonious coloration, the skillful rendition of highlights and shadows accentuating the reflective exoskeleton, and the accurate portrayal of the lobster's anatomical intricacies constitute critical aspects of the artistic process.

Abraham van Beyeren, Still Life with Lobster and Fruit, early 1650s, Oil on wood MMA 1971.254

The luminous textures of metalwork and glass mirror an abundance of ripe fruits and a lobster in this captivating still life. Elaborate tables like the one depicted, adorned with a rich assortment of food and exotic luxuries like the blue-and-white porcelain bowl from China, exemplify the essence of Dutch still life during the latter part of the seventeenth century. These artworks signify a departure from the previous themes of immortality and vanity found in earlier still lifes, embracing wholeheartedly the earthly delights and pleasures of life.

The inclusion of wild game in still life paintings adds a captivating and dynamic element to the traditional genre. Artists skillfully portray various game animals, such as birds, rabbits, and deer, often alongside fruits, vegetables, and other culinary items. This artistic fusion of nature's bounty with human-made objects evokes a sense of abundance, while also symbolizing themes of sustenance, the cycle of life, and the intricate relationship between humans and the natural world. The presence of wild game in still lifes provides a glimpse into culinary traditions, hunting practices, and societal values, making these artworks both visually compelling and culturally significant.

Jan Weenix, Gamepiece with a Dead Heron 1695, Oil on canvas MMA 50.55

Presumably intended for a townhouse, this decorative painting beautifully captures the abundance of the hunt on a country estate. A heron and various other deceased birds spill out of a game bag, positioned beside a grand neoclassical urn. These animal trophies seamlessly blend into the elegant landscape, portraying a courtly atmosphere, while the excitement of the hunt remains unseen. In the backdrop, aristocratic figures leisurely stroll near an ornamental pond, graced by gliding swans.

Balancing all these diverse elements within the still life requires an acute sense of composition. The artist must strategically place each food item and accompanying object, such as glassware or utensils, to create a harmonious arrangement that allows the viewer to appreciate the unique qualities of each element. Achieving a sense of depth and dimension is essential to make the fish, cheese, and fruits appear enticingly three-dimensional and to draw the audience into the culinary scene.

Severin Roesen , Still Life: Fruit, 1855, Oil on canvas MMA 63.99

In this captivating display, effervescent Champagne and over a dozen varieties of fresh fruit take center stage. The abundance of this extravagant assortment is made possible by nineteenth-century advancements in cultivation and shipping practices, which allowed for the inclusion of exotic items like the tropical pineapple and heavily seeded melons, hinting at the nation's future prosperity. Roesen, a German immigrant, sought refuge from the upheavals of 1848 by seeking opportunities in America. In the 1850s, he showcased his art in New York, contributing eleven paintings to the American Art-Union's Free Gallery exhibitions between 1848 and 1852. Eventually, in 1863, he settled in Pennsylvania, where he garnered patrons from the lumber industry, who cherished the perceived limitless resources of America.

The pursuit of realism in portraying these diverse food items calls for continuous practice and experimentation. The artist's dedication to refining their skills, learning from the subtleties of color and texture, and exploring various artistic techniques all contribute to the creation of food still lifes that are both technically impressive and aesthetically gratifying. By overcoming these technical challenges, the artist crafts still lifes that captivate viewers, inviting them to relish the tantalizing beauty of fish, cheese, and fruits, and marvel at the skillful rendition of this delectable culinary tableau.

Philippe Rousseau, Still Life with Ham, 1870s, Oil on canvas MMA 1982.320

In this artwork, Rousseau skillfully blends his reverence for eighteenth-century still life paintings with a focus on present-day, ordinary elements. These include a copy of the newspaper Le Figaro on the left and a letter, addressed to the artist at his residence in Acquigny, northern France, positioned at the center. The succulent ham is tastefully adorned with a sprig of bay leaves. Paintings like this brought Rousseau immense acclaim within fashionable circles, and it is possible that the current piece was displayed at the Salon of 1877 under the title "Le Déjeuner" (The Lunch).